Sonoma and the Bear Flag
California’s last mission, an eight-acre plaza where a republic lasted 25 days, and the vineyards that started the whole thing.

The short version
- Sonoma sits 45 miles north of the Golden Gate — an hour by car when the bridge cooperates. Transit exists on paper and consumes the day in practice; drive, or join a tour if the tasting rooms are the point.
- The plaza is California’s largest town square — eight acres of ducks, picnic lawns, and city hall in the middle — ringed by adobes from the Mexican era. On June 14, 1846, a band of American settlers raised a homemade flag with a bear on it here and declared a republic that lasted about three weeks before the US flag replaced it. The monument marks the spot; the state flag still carries the bear.
- Mission San Francisco Solano, founded 1823, is the last and northernmost of California’s 21 missions — a few dollars covers it plus the Sonoma Barracks and General Vallejo’s home under one state-park ticket; hours at parks.ca.gov.
- Buena Vista, founded 1857 by the self-titled Count Agoston Haraszthy, claims the title of California’s oldest premium winery and pours in the original stone cellars — tastings at buenavistawinery.com, a five-minute drive from the plaza.
- The blocks around the plaza do the rest: the cheese counters, the Sebastiani theatre marquee, tasting rooms within walking distance of lunch — which matters, because someone has to drive home.

Getting there
Drive north on US-101, east on CA-37 along the top of the bay, then north on CA-12 into the valley — about an hour from the city without traffic, closer to 90 minutes with it. Park once near the plaza; everything in town proper is walkable from there. The wineries string north along CA-12, most within ten minutes of the square. Ferry-plus-bus combinations exist for the stubborn; they spend three hours each way proving the car was right.
The day
Start on the plaza while the light is low — city hall, the duck pond, the Bear Flag monument — then do the Mexican-era triangle on one state-park ticket: the mission’s chapel and cactus courtyard, the Sonoma Barracks across the street, and Vallejo’s Gothic-revival home a short walk west, the house of the Mexican general who ended up a California booster. Lunch off the plaza — the girl & the fig is the standby, the cheese shops build the picnic alternative. The afternoon goes to the vines: Buena Vista for the cellars and the Count’s story, or Gundlach Bundschu for the hillside, or simply the tasting rooms around the square if the car is staying put. Coffee before CA-37; the bridge will still be there.
When to go
April through October is the valley at work — green vines in spring, crush and harvest buzz in September and October, which is also peak crowd. Winter brings mustard flowers between bare vines, empty tasting rooms, and locals’ prices; the mission does not care about the season. Summer weekends triple the plaza; Fridays are the quiet steal.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get from San Francisco to Sonoma?
Drive — US-101 to CA-37 to CA-12, about an hour each way outside rush hour. Public transit requires multiple transfers and most of the day; wine-country tours fill the gap if nobody wants to drive.
What happened at the Bear Flag Revolt?
In June 1846, American settlers seized Sonoma from the Mexican garrison, raised a hand-painted bear flag on the plaza, and declared the California Republic. It lasted about 25 days before the US Navy’s flag went up — but the bear stayed on the state flag.
Is the mission worth seeing?
Yes, and it is quick — the 1823 chapel, a museum wing, and a courtyard take under an hour, and the same few-dollar ticket covers the barracks and Vallejo’s home. Together they are the best compressed history lesson in wine country.
Which wineries are closest to the plaza?
Buena Vista and Gundlach Bundschu are both five-to-ten-minute drives, and a dozen tasting rooms sit on or just off the square itself — walkable, which keeps the driver problem solvable.
Sonoma or Napa for a first trip?
Sonoma, if a town square, missions, and lower-key tasting fees appeal; Napa for the grand estates. Sonoma is also 20 minutes closer to the bridge, which counts at 5 pm.